Coastal Systems: Waves 8 Swash and Backwash 2 months ago   01:10

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ProfSimonHaslett
In the field with Simon Haslett, Professor of Physical Geography at the University of Wales and author of Coastal Systems (2016, University of Wales Press).
Topics: Reflected waves, wave superposition, standing waves, clapotis.
Location: Weston-super-Mare (Somerset, England).
Latitude/longitude (for Google Earth): 51°21'10.63"N, 2°59'18.80"W.
Further reading: S. K. Haslett (2016) Coastal Systems, 3rd Edition. University of Wales Press, Cardiff, 230pp. Available from : http://www.uwp.co.uk/editions/9781783169009/ (see Section 2.2) Camera operator: Prof Simon Haslett (University of Wales).

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William Smith
Professor Haslett, I’m confused about the term “clapotis”. My understanding is a clapotis is a standing non-lapping or non-breaking wave. An example would be raising water in a sea cave or along a sea wall, were the water just rises and falls, but not breaking over or waves coming together. I have read about the clapotis in a warning to kayakers in sea caves. The warning and danger is a wave that is not really seen, but the water just rises and falls. Am I on track or way off?
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Swash and Backwash Coastal Systems: Waves 8 2 months ago   01:01

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A one minute clip showing swash and backwash for a series of waves on Phuket island in Thailand. The first few waves have low energy whereas the last few waves carry higher energy and are probably destructive waves as erosion will likely exceed deposition.